EarthBox Forum
EarthBox Chat => Questions and Answers => Topic started by: EarthBoxAdmin on July 12, 2017, 12:04:27 pm
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on May 25, 2007.
I have six Earthboxes. Last year I had three with tomatoes, and I bought the EB staking system for each of those three. All three broke with the weight of the plants. The connectors actually snapped off on two of them, and the third was bent badly. I am sure that they will be redesigned as I have already read. If you are a do-it-yourselfer, and want to build an indestructible cage for either the old style Earthbox, or the newer version with casters, here are the directions:
I have made the best cage for tomatoes in Earthboxes that I have seen so far. As far as asthetics, well no good cage will be overly attractive. Take fence wire that is about 4 feet tall. My Earthboxes measure 32 inches long and 14 inches wide. The cage will fit the older boxes as well as the newer boxes with casters. The only difference is you will need to cut some of the wire and slip the finished cage over the wheels. First, make a base out of the wire that is two inches on each side longer than the Earthbox. Cut your fence wire to about 36inches by 14 inches. This will go under the Earthbox. Then take a section of fence wire that is 92 inches wide by the 48 inches high (this is the height of the fencing material, if you buy it at a store such as Lowe's). You will fold the fencing so that the first section is 32 inches, then the second fold will be 14 inches, the 3rd will be 32 inches and the fourth side is again 14 inches. It will take some folding and bending, but you will have a rectangular cage that you either get some low gauge wire to attach the two end sides together, or if you plan it out when you cut your section, you can have long wires left on the end of each cut that can be used later for this purpose. One note of caution. The wire is very sharp, and will cut and poke your hands and anything else if you are not careful. Wear gloves and eye protection. As you work with the wire, be careful as it can spring back and hit you. Ok, take the first rectangular section and slide it over the Earthbox and attach it to the base. I have found that the tomato plants grow very high, so I have made a second section just like the first rectangular section and placed it inside on the top of the first section. I then wire the two together forming an 8 foot tall cage that will not have any problem containing two tall tomato plants. The final step is to cut the wire grids so you can get your hands inside to pick tomatoes, put a hose inside to fill the spout (I have a completely automated system using an irrigation timer box, automatic valves, with Mister Mister black hose going into each box and I set the timer for one minute for each box). I would recommend grinding and smoothing the cut ends where your hands will go thru, as the cut ends are sharp and will cut or scratch you. It will take a couple of hours to make a cage like I have described, but once made, it will last for ever. The only thing to remember, is that next year, you will have to undo the wires that connect the cage to the base, so you can remove the cage to work on your Earthbox and replant it. Tools used: Wire cutters, Dremel Moto tool, Heavy duty pliers, aluminum wire for joining the sections, measuring tape, gloves, and eye protection.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, mlh. This was originally posted on May 25, 2007.
A picture is worth a thousand words Smiley
Maybe snap a few photos of it and post on this thread. I would be interested in taking a look. Seems like an inexpensive solution that works.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Active Member, MTC3. This was originally posted on May 25, 2007.
johnthomassc3
I would still call customer service and get the redesigned connectors. They really do make a big difference. You never know when you may need to use them.
MTC3
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on May 28, 2007.
Here are three pictures of the base the middle and the top.
The Pictures somehow disappeared, but I have put new pictures below.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on May 28, 2007.
Here are three pictures of the base the middle and the top.
The Pictures somehow disappeared, but I have put new pictures below.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on May 28, 2007.
Here are three pictures of the base the middle and the top.
The Pictures somehow disappeared, but I have put new pictures below.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, tmm99. This was originally posted on may 29, 2007.
Just curios...how do you harvest the tomatoes?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, ioiosotwig. This user is located in N. Illinois USA - Zone 5. This was originally posted on May 29, 2007.
...The final step is to cut the wire grids so you can get your hands inside to pick tomatoes...
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, tmm99. This was originally posted on June 14, 2007.
Got it. Thanks.
Another question
(I have a completely automated system using an irrigation timer box, automatic valves, with Mister Mister black hose going into each box and I set the timer for one minute for each box).
Do you have a photo of this also?
Thanks,
tmm
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on June 18, 2017.
Yes I do and my photo's are under My Earthbox. My setup is under "my setup". If you need anything else, I will be glad to help the best I can. Yesterday, I added additional irrigation to my potted plants. The products at Lowe's are in the irrigation area, called Mister Landscaper. They have fittings for about any setup you need for either drippers, or sprinkler type heads. For the Earthboxes, I only use the 1/2 inch black tubing, and the rest of the equipment is a Rainbird timer, 3 valves, and assorted irrigation plumbing parts. In my area we have a business called W.P. Law that designs and supplies parts for sprinkler systems, and other irrigation systems. I go there when I need something for either my outdoor sprinkler system, or my little deck irrigation system that I use for my Earthboxes. If you have people that do this in your town, and they are a part supplier as well, they are a wonderful wealth of knowledge. They walk around with me after I tell them what I want to do, and they pick out the parts and instruct me on how to put it all together. Years ago, I installed my own seven zone sprinkler system. That was a major undertaking. To do a system for Earthboxes is not very hard. It's like playing with Legos. The new valves that Earthbox is coming out with that will shut off the water supply, will be a nice addition to a system like mine. If your boxes are outdoors on the ground, it really doesn't matter if some water overflows out the overflow holes. The key is to keep water in the boxes at all times. As all Earthbox owners know, the boxes will go dry quickly when the summer weather gets hot and the plants drink water like crazy. I have to have a system that waters when I am gone, and mine does the trick, not only for my Earthboxes, but also for all my potted plants that are on two decks.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, Follygrows. This was originally posted on April 11, 2009.
Hi, johnthomasc3!
Just setting up a my first Earthbox and came upon your instructions for "An indestructible Staking system". Sounds good, but the pictures are no longer visible. I also checked under "My Earthbox" as mentioned in your post. Must be that they are too old or something. Can you repost them? Or direct me to a more recent post that may have photos? Thnx.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Guest, cushman350. This was originally posted on April 11, 2009.
Follygrows
johnthomasc3 has not posted in a long while. His pics a gone, only his instructions remain. I remember his pics and of course that helps when reading the instructions. A close cousin to his cage is shown in MGM's pics in the thread below and the differences are pointed out by me. John's cage hugs the box very tightly and is tied to the base piece of wire material, the weight of the box sitting directly on the base adds to its stability. I think casters would defeat the design.
I'll include a drawing of a design from pvc ( 3/4" or 1" thick walled pipe ) that sits on rebar driven into the ground. It's a side view, put T's in the uprights and join the sides with horizontal pipes. Use like that or attach netting.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist, over 45 years in the business. The EarthBox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on April 13, 2009.
Follygrows: please note you are responding and asking a question to a post and or poster that is dated June of 07. I just looked up johnthomasc3 and the last time he was active was July of 2007. I just don't want you or other new forum members to be disappointed if you don't get a response. Since we have a ton of new members.....tons of people are doing what we suggest and do reading and research of topics that interest them on this forum. The downside is they re-surface old postings....and you don't realize it.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on April 29, 2010.
I am just now coming back to the forum. I will post some new pictures of my indestructible tomato cage. I am now in North Carolina and have set up 6 Earthboxes on a deck and three more (with Flowers) down below. I will put the pictures in the next post.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on April 29, 2010.
Picture 1
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on April 29, 2010.
Three more pictures with the one of the flowers included because they look so nice.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on April 29, 2010.
Three more pictures with the one of the flowers included because they look so nice.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on April 29, 2010.
Closer view of the cage. It is hard to see the cutouts where you put your hands thru to pick the tomatoes.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, cushman350. This user is located in Tomato Hell, Wichita Falls, TX Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 29, 2010.
That's one tall cage. It looks like it's as tall as the bottom of the canopy, is it?
Also, the EBs with flowers setting flat on the ground look like they have ribs along the sides, is this a new model or new manufacturer or old ones?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on April 29, 2010.
The Earthboxes with the Flowers are very old. They do have sort of a built in rib area, but they have the problem of getting wider with potting mix in them and the dirt falls into the water. The cage is about 8 feet tall, and last year my tomatos reached very near the top. I have to say that there is no fear of the the plants getting too big. The cages cannot topple over unless there is a tornado.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, toothius. This user is located in Chicagoland, IL, Zone 5-6. This was originally posted on June 1, 2011.
I know this is an old thread, but thank you, John, for designing these cages and sharing them with us. I had hoped to do a more natural staking system with wood or bamboo, but since my boxes are in front of my house on the walkway (only place I can get enough sun), stakes wouldn't work very well. This is a very solid system. I used your measurements and they fit together perfectly and fast! It was also much cheaper than using pea cages from Gurney's, which were $27 for each box!
Since my tomatoes are still small, I've only made the first level. When they get closer to four feet, I'll add the second level. I didn't want to create an 8 foot eye sore in front of my house. Once they're filled with leaves and tomatoes, I doubt the cages will be as noticible. My wife said she didn't even notice them when she drove up to the house.
The extra wire for tying the cages together I purchased wasn't even necessary since, like you said, you can just cut your fence so that you leave some extra wire on either end, which you use to bend around the other parts of the fencing. Brilliant.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, FLmoose. This user is located in Vero Beach, FL - Zone 10. This was originally posted on April 15, 2012.
Not sure if anyone is still monitoring this thread, but I am considering this cage design for my new Earthboxes. I do not have the Earthbox staking system for my boxes, and just wanted to make sure you don't need it in order for this design to be stable. How is the cage attached/anchored to the box?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, cushman350. This user is located in Tomato Hell, Wichita Falls, TX Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 15, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, FLmoose. This user is located in Vero Beach, FL - Zone 10. This was originally posted on April 15, 2012.
Not sure if anyone is still monitoring this thread, but I am considering this cage design for my new Earthboxes. I do not have the Earthbox staking system for my boxes, and just wanted to make sure you don't need it in order for this design to be stable. How is the cage attached/anchored to the box?
The cage has a bottom that the heavy EB sits on. If I had a railing, I would still tie the cage to it or on the ground I would use rebar steel to secure the cage to the ground. Then you need to locate some openings around to have access to the fruit.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 15,
2012.
...Then you need to locate some openings around to have access to the fruit.
Or use screen with big openings?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located in Zone 7A --- Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on April 15, 2012.
Cushman or Movrshakr,
Have you used this style ?
Judi
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 15, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located in Zone 7A --- Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on April 15,
2012.
Cushman or Movrshakr,
Have you used this style ?
Judi
I have one with large openings, but it is as a trellis rather than a cage. It was similar to a "hog panel" but it was a goat panel or pig panel or something like that. The differences seem to be the sizes of the openings, and these panel thinggies have different size openings on the same sheet---some smaller ones along one side, then larger ones.
They are very heavy gauge metal, so they make a very sturdy trellis if attached to a sturdy support structure.
Back to the topic of opening size---most of the openings on mine are quite large, maybe 6' x 4" and are very easy to reach through, Also i see no detriment to the large size--never is there no wire close enough to attach a branch tie up to. So, my recommendation is to go with as large openings as you can find. Oh, I cut mine to fit the trellis by cutting off a couple of rows of the smaller size openings.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, thefist. This user is located in Cary, NC, Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 15, 2012.
I'm glad this post got refreshed. I was about to build the exact same cage very soon. This should be very sturdy. I used the same fencing wrapped around some large round containers the past couple years and they held up quite well. I cut some pretty big openings in mine, so all these pics look to be of a much sturdier cage. I fastened mine to a plastic pot with only 3or 4 zip ties, and they never were close to tipping or blowing over.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, cushman350. This user is located in Tomato Hell, Wichita Falls, TX Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 16, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located in Zone 7A --- Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on April 15,
2012.
Cushman or Movrshakr,
Have you used this style ?
Judi
I have not used this small of mesh wire. I have concrete wire cages bent into circles that are held over my boxes by an old yard swing(minus the swing) A-frame for the last 5 years. The cages set on 2x2s that are bolted to the frame .
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 16, 2012.
I really like those big openings--perfect. I have never worked with concrete wire. How about a few words on working with it...shaping, cutting, joining, etc. It looks perfect with those really big openings.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, seansmum. This user is located in Queensbury, NY, Zone 4-5. This was originally posted on April 16, 2012.
I purchased this for making tomato cages last year.
http://www.wireclothman.com/
It was a little pricey, $60, but that was for four 4X20 rolls. It's very sturdy and fairly easy to work with. It's also available on amazon in single rolls for about $ 23 including shipping.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, cushman350. This user is located in Tomato Hell, Wichita Falls, TX Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 16, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 16, 2012.
I really like those big openings--perfect. I have never worked with concrete wire. How about a few words on working with it...shaping, cutting, joining, etc. It looks perfect with those really big openings.
I think this wire came in 4'X8' panels. I trimmed them to the desired circumference, started at flat end and bent and pushed down until I had a circle and bent the pointy ends around the flat end. I cut it with very large wire cutters but one could use an angle grinder with a cutting disc or dremel tool with cutting disc. A hack saw would be tedious and slow.
They could be bent into a square with no change of utility. The circle seemed quicker and less bending.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, Texas.Micky. This user is located near Houston, TX Zone 8b-9a. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
This is a nice post with a lot of great information regarding these nice cages.
What about the cost comparisons on these and any hints on best places to shop for these materials?
Regular welded wire 54" high tomato cages aren't as sturdy, and seem to be going for about $4.99 ea near my location.
Thanks in advance.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist, over 45 years in the business. The EarthBox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
The challenge with traditional tomato cages is they won't stay anchored in the EarthBox, I don't recall if any of our forum members found a way to anchor them.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 25,
2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist, over 45 years in the business. The EarthBox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
The challenge with traditional tomato cages is they won't stay anchored in the EarthBox, I don't recall if any of our forum members found a way to anchor them.
Doesn't gardendoc use ultomato cages--pretty conventional type. How does he anchor them?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, cushman350. This user is located in Tomato Hell, Wichita Falls, TX Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 25,
2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist, over 45 years in the business. The EarthBox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
The challenge with traditional tomato cages is they won't stay anchored in the EarthBox, I don't recall if any of our forum members found a way to anchor them.
Doesn't gardendoc use ultomato cages--pretty conventional type. How does he anchor them?
I think the ultomato cages are something new, I'm curious too.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Sun City Linda. This user is located in SoCal Inland 9A. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
I think Garden Doc grows mostly determinate tomatoes which are a little easier to contain.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL; Zone 9B. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
They must be. Even with 5' between boxes, I'm already crawling around vines to get between them. Vines that I've supported as close to the plant as possible without cramping it.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located Zone 7A---Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
guess I did not use the ultimato correctly.
I used a few last year with determinates and it was a complete disaster.
The pieces moved and did not support the tomato.
The main stem was supported, but it did not act like a cage to "contain" the plant...branches that I thought were supported ...were not and broke
I was very frustrated but will attempt to make them work again this year...if they start to fail...that is it, done !
Judi
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
I'm using the Ultimato frames this year and am planning tying around the frame as the plants grow
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 25, 2012.
doc, I think the question is how you prevent wind tip over with the ultomatoes.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 26, 2012.
Never used the Utimatos before, but I only grow determinates and will not have an eight foot sail to catch the wind. If its a problem I'll use and old nursery trick with rebar stakes
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL; Zone 9B. This was originally posted on April 26, 2012.
Let us know how it goes.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, Thomcatbob. This user is located in Bonita Springs, FL - Zone 10a. This was originally posted on February 18, 2013.
I just tried this staking system since I did not want to wait on pea fences from Gurney's. (my tomatoes are growing at a quickly rate!). I bought a roll of fencing - 24" x 50' and set up the system within a matter of a couple of hours. My only concern is that there is no staking on the inside of the cage to support the tomatoes. Don't know if it really matters because it looks like the designer of the cages had some sort of staking system inside these cages and some without.
Will post pix later.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, johnthomasc3. This user is located in Chapin, SC - Zone 7. This was originally posted on April 25, 2013.
I'm back. I still use the same staking system I showed in the original system. There is actually a bottom "plate" that I made to adapt to either the old time boxes that had no wheels, and also to those that had wheel systems. Either way, the cages are very stable. As for the staking inside the cages, the tomatoes pretty much support themselves by growing branches thru the wire.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 25, 2013.
gardendoc, how did the ultimato supports work out last year?
I've heard a lot of people comment on them as "inadequate," to use a single word as summary. So, I'd be interested in your opinion, and did you add or adjust anything in using them.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, morganmac. This user is located in NW Georgia, Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 25, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 25, 2013.
gardendoc, how did the ultimato supports work out last year?
I've heard a lot of people comment on them as "inadequate," to use a single word as summary. So, I'd be interested in your opinion, and did you add or adjust anything in using them.
I know this was addressed to gardendoc, but I tried them last year, too. I only grew determinates and the Ultomato seemed to work fine...though I did purchase 6' stakes and the cross pieces separately because a) the kit only comes with 5' stakes and b) they were sold out of the kits. I think the extra foot made a difference. I can definitely see how it would be inadequate with the monster indeterminate maters the EB tends to produce.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, cushmna350. This user is located in Tomato Hell, Wichita Falls, TX Zone 7b. This was originally posted on April 25, 2013.
Posted by: Thomcatbob
I just tried this staking system since I did not want to wait on pea fences from Gurney's. (my tomatoes are growing at a quickly rate!). I bought a roll of fencing - 24" x 50' and set up the system within a matter of a couple of hours. My only concern is that there is no staking on the inside of the cage to support the tomatoes. Don't know if it really matters because it looks like the designer of the cages had some sort of staking system inside these cages and some without.
Will post pix later.
I use concrete wire bent round in about a 2.5 ft diameter circle. When plants are young, that's a pretty big space for it to be whipped around in, so I employ cross bars, horizontally, of bamboo or other handy stake with Velcro tape until the plants get bushy, then remove them. The same can be done with the John Thomas design also.
Squash took advantage of the area between the cages in the photo below, so let the wind blow.