EarthBox Forum
EarthBox Chat => Tips and Tricks => Topic started by: EarthBoxAdmin on June 02, 2017, 11:58:30 am
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user was located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9A. This was originally posted on April 10, 2013.
From time to time I seem to be a renegade in the proper care and feeding of Earthbox crops (FBP use and "the snack" come to mind). There been a lot of interest since I started posting videos of the "mad scientist" in action. With that in mind Im starting this topic that will focus with methods that I have found successful here at the UNF. Ill be moving some of the more memorable tidbits here.
I spoke at the Greenhouse Tomato Short course last month in Raymond, MS and found these neat little clips that greenhouse tomato growers use. I think will make trellising much easier in our home gardens. I bought these from Growers Supply, www.growerssupply.com, item 110007 tomato clips.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user was located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9A. This was originally posted on April 10, 2013.
Here's the video showing how I prep EB covers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86ZdcdIozGg
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Sr. Member, Kareneh. This user is located in Phoenix, Arizona - Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 10, 2013.
Yoy always have the best advice and tips. I'm hoping you continue to produce more videos.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, linear249. This user is located in Zone 8b. This was originally posted on April 13, 2013.
Gardendoc, we bought these clips about 4 years ago and tried to use them for 2 seasons. They worked well the 1st year but became very brittle and broke during use the 2nd year. This year were using Velcro brand Self-Gripping Ties. Worked well during the bad weather we had last week.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user was located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9A. This was originally posted on April 13, 2013.
The clips only cost 2 cents each, one year is good in my book.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 14, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, linear249. This user is located in Zone 8b. This was originally posted on April 13, 2013.
Gardendoc, we bought these clips about 4 years ago and tried to use them for 2 seasons. They worked well the 1st year but became very brittle and broke during use the 2nd year. This year were using Velcro brand Self-Gripping Ties. Worked well during the bad weather we had last week.
ummmm, WHAT clips?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, tag. This user is located in Fleming Island, Fl, Zone 8. This was originally posted on April 14, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user was located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9A. This was originally posted on April 10, 2013.
Here's the video showing how I prep EB covers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86ZdcdIozGg
But....but....but it only took you less than 8 minutes to prep and replant your box. I thought it couldn't be done in less than 30 minutes.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Sr. Member, jccarter. This user is located in
Zone 6/Zone 7B depending on the website resource.. This was originally posted on April 15, 2013.
Super videos. They've given me some ideas. I have to watch them again at home so I can hear the audio. I would LOVE to get to less than 10min to prep/replant. I typically take about 20-30min at the mo. I think. It feels like a lot of time. I should really time myself next time...hmm...
Any who, again, love the vids!
Cheers,
J.C.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, Rondini. This user is located in Zone 5 more like 4 mid Michigan. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
OK so you don't take out the top 2" to get rid of the salts from old planting left over? How long have you been doing it this way? Have you seen any detriment from the salts getting mixed into the planting medium?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Guest, cushman350. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, Rondini. This user is located in Zone 5 more like 4 mid Michigan.
OK so you don't take out the top 2" to get rid of the salts from old planting left over? How long have you been doing it this way? Have you seen any detriment from the salts getting mixed into the planting medium?
If you use organic fert you don't get salt build up like synthetic fret.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
Right now I'm transitioning from lettuce. For the winter leafy crops I use a locally available certified organic fertilizer. With the heavier feeding tomatoes, peppers, etc. I use the ag grade granular. When prepping after using the granular fertilizers I only remove the mix immediately surrounding the fertilizer strip, not the entire top 2" which I consider extreme overkill when considering salt buildup.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
I have asked a couple of times precisely what is it about the salts that is detrimental to subsequent plantings. Never got an answer--or missed it if it was posted.
Anybody really know?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The EarthBox Hero Member, Kathy. This user is located in The mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
Salts are toxic in higher doses/concentrates. Salt was used as a weed killer back in the day.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
The salt buildup may inhibit or cause damage to the root system. I grow two crops of tomatoes and two crops of lettuce/greens in the same EBs in a 12-month period. I think it needs to be in the back of the gardeners mind when prepping.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The EarthBox Hero Member, Kathy. This user is located in The mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
Salts are toxic in higher doses/concentrates. Salt was used as a weed killer back in the day.
Do you know what level of EC would be a problem.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Salt_%28chemistry%29
is interesting, but doesnt really shed light on what would interest us
-which kind of salts develop in the EarthBox
(it certainly is not sodium chloride, NaCl--the salt we normally think of)
-how do they affect plants
I assume they would come from either Ca or Mg as the cation and maybe nitrate or nitrite (nitrogen) as the anion--but that is pure guess.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, Rondini. This user is located in Zone 5 more like 4 mid Michigan. This was originally posted on April 17, 2013.
Thank you for getting back with me on this so quickly Gardendoc.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 18, 2013.
Great video. I'm going to go get some flashing tomorrow. I have a question... I think I started my plants way too early and they are now 12" or more in height. I have them in a 2 pint container and our frost date is apprx. May 10th. Are my plants too big to transplant into an earthbox or should I start over with new seeds? I also have squash plants of equal or larger in size. I just couldn't help my self. My house and garage looks like a forest.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 18, 2013.
Those are going to be really big holding them another 3+ weeks. I know folks have transplanted this size in their EBS. I like to transplant seedlings are about 8 weeks old. BW will transplant much smaller plugs. There are lots of options
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on April 18, 2013.
Bdumler, if you have any way to cover them in event of a predicted frost, you could consider going ahead with the planting...but with another 3 weeks, that leaves a pretty significant possibility of cold.
Frost you could probably protect from; a hard freeze would be deadly though.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 19, 2013.
I may try to plant some and leave them in the garage. I could probably move them with a dolly. I just had eye surgery so I can't lift anything over 10 lbs. Just trying to figure out if I can do this and stake them at the same time.
Got the flashing yesterday. Now I'm trying to bend it to size. This will make mixing up the mix sooooo much easier. Thank you Gardendoc!!!!!!!!!!!!! That was the best idea ever. If you happen to read this, I would be interested in how you snack your tomatoes. I had a bad problem with BSR last year and I followed all instructions to the tee. I added the one time treatment to the pour hole but it didn't help. Hopefully this will be a better year.
Thanks everyone who answers all of our questions. I have learned so much from everyone!!!
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on April 19, 2013.
Try using calcium nitrate as a "snack", 1 tsp in the reservoir about once per week will help with BER.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Sun City Linda. This user is located in SoCal Inland 9A. This was originally posted by April 19, 2013.
BDumler - In addition to the Snack Doc mentions which many of us use, new boxes are more likely to have BER also. I had it on many of my tomatoes in first year but have not had it since.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Guest, cushman350. This was originally posted on April 19, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 19, 2013.
I may try to plant some and leave them in the garage. I could probably move them with a dolly. I just had eye surgery so I can't lift anything over 10 lbs. Just trying to figure out if I can do this and stake them at the same time.
Got the flashing yesterday. Now I'm trying to bend it to size. This will make mixing up the mix sooooo much easier. Thank you Gardendoc!!!!!!!!!!!!! That was the best idea ever. If you happen to read this, I would be interested in how you snack your tomatoes. I had a bad problem with BSR last year and I followed all instructions to the tee. I added the one time treatment to the pour hole but it didn't help. Hopefully this will be a better year.
Thanks everyone who answers all of our questions. I have learned so much from everyone!!!
I did that my first year with EBs. Rolled them out in the morning and back in at night when the 30s were predicted. Harbor Freight has carpet covered moving dollies. I started with 2 EBs and 2 dollies. They are handy and last forever.
http://www.harborfreight.com/movers-dolly-93888.html
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 19, 2013.
Cushman,
I've seen these. I shop at Harbor Freight a lot. Do you think they would be easy to move them from the front yard to the back yard going over loose rocks? Eventually they need to go into the back yard. Did you secure them to the dolly with anything or did you just sit them on top and hold on to both while rolling them?
Its raining right now and thunder and lighting. Love it!
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 19, 2013.
Is Calcium Nitrate a powder or liquid and do I get it at a gardening store like Zamzoes, Home Depot, etc. or a pharmacy?
When you said that BSR is better in 2nd and 3rd yr boxes does that mean you planted tomatoes in the same box each year rather than rotating the crops? This will be my 3rd year and I was going to put a different crop in each box. I started with 2 boxes when I lived in Los Angeles and now have 14 here in ID. I may not have enough for everything and will have to resort to a few buckets.
Got the flashing and got it bent together and taped together. Tried it out and it works great!!!!
Now, I will have to go to Harbor Freight and get the dollys.
Thanks again to everyone here for your advice and all of your knowledge!
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on April 20, 2013.
BDumler2-- calcium nitrate is not commonly found locally. You MIGHT find it at a feed store, but most of us get it on line. The best source I've found is www.kelp4less.com they are reasonably priced, and the shipping is free. Calcium nitrate comes in granules, is fairly heavy, so order enough (a small amount really wont last you).
If you get the dollies from Harbor Freight, tie a rope to one end so you can pull it instead of trying to push it while hanging onto the EB.
Mickie
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Guest, cushman350. This was originally posted on April 20, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 19, 2013.
Cushman,
I've seen these. I shop at Harbor Freight a lot. Do you think they would be easy to move them from the front yard to the back yard going over loose rocks? Eventually they need to go into the back yard. Did you secure them to the dolly with anything or did you just sit them on top and hold on to both while rolling them?
Its raining right now and thunder and lighting. Love it!
During the threat of freezing, I just rolled them from garage to driveway. Loose gravel would surely be a problem. As Mickie said, pulling will be easier than pushing. The narrow wheels will dig into the gravel. I would just keep them near a protected location until temps are not a danger, then place them permanently.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 20, 2013.
Kathy,
Is there a way to make sure we don't have salt build up if were not sure. I was using non-organic fertilizer but have switched to organic. Can the potting mix be flushed out some way or do I need to start completely over? This will be my 3rd year and I have always dug out the fertilizer strip and surrounding area.
Thanking you in advance for all and everyone's help.
Barbara
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Sun City Linda. This user is located in SoCal Inland 9A. This was originally posted by April 20, 2013.
Bdumler - Crop rotation is not an issue in EBs where are we growing in soiless mix and adding new ferts each season.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Guest, cushman350. This was originally posted by April 21, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on April 21, 2013.
Kathy,
Is there a way to make sure we don't have salt build up if were not sure. I was using non-organic fertilizer but have switched to organic. Can the potting mix be flushed out some way or do I need to start completely over? This will be my 3rd year and I have always dug out the fertilizer strip and surrounding area.
Thanking you in advance for all and everyone's help.
Barbara
Any salts present will rise and collect at the top of the mix, not throughout unless one has turned it into the mix instead of removing first.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, AverageDude. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user was located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9A. This was originally posted on April 10, 2013.
Here's the video showing how I prep EB covers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86ZdcdIozGg
What is the item you use to remove your soil? A ball bogger?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Bulb planter, I guess its my yankee accent.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Bulb planter, I guess its my yankee accent.
Mississippi?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Sr. Member, BPFSU. This user is located in Zone 8b North Florida. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Bulb planter, I guess its my yankee accent.
Mississippi?
I have relatives in Long Beach, and they have slightly more southern accents than the Doc. Transplant?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 2, 2013.
Detroit and Sault Ste. Marie. Never developed a yupper dialect.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Weve been having the conversation about supporting peppers lately, so I wanted to show everyone how I use the Ultimato. This works well for peppers as well as eggplants
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS6U2ILvYxs&feature=youtu.be
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Psyche. This user is located in Zone 7a, Maryland. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Weve been having the conversation about supporting peppers lately, so I wanted to show everyone how I use the Ultimato. This works well for peppers as well as eggplants
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS6U2ILvYxs&feature=youtu.be
Thanks for the video. That was easier than I thought.
What is the spacing of the ultomato for 6 plants? The two in the middle would be under a span.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Gardendoc,
Last year I had problems with the wind knocking the peppers down. What would you suggest about the wind. Your videos are great. Thanking you in advance.
Barbara
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Psyche. This user is located in Zone 7a, Maryland.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Weve been having the conversation about supporting peppers lately, so I wanted to show everyone how I use the Ultimato. This works well for peppers as well as eggplants
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS6U2ILvYxs&feature=youtu.be
Thanks for the video. That was easier than I thought.
What is the spacing of the ultomato for 6 plants? The two in the middle would be under a span.
Spacing three longways on each side and just work the support bars through.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Gardendoc,
Last year I had problems with the wind knocking the peppers down. What would you suggest about the wind. Your videos are great. Thanking you in advance.
Barbara
We were a little windy when hurricane Issac brushed us last September, peppers and eggplants did fine in the Ultimatos.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Active Member, codybear. This user is located in Rutland, Virginia Zone 5. This was originally posted on May 9, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Weve been having the conversation about supporting peppers lately, so I wanted to show everyone how I use the Ultimato. This works well for peppers as well as eggplants
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS6U2ILvYxs&feature=youtu.be
Gardendoc would you think this ultomato would support growing zucchini plants?
Love your post, your videos have been very helpful.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on May 10, 2013.
Here's what I used for my Zucchini. There's a piece of rebar in the ground that the pvc fits over so it wont blow over. I had trellis string but it was too small for the leaves so I just left the pvc pipe and it worked great.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on May 10, 2013.
Other than the two lower crossbars, I don't see that framework providing much "support" at all. or am I not seeing the picture right.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on May 10, 2013.
When I saw that the trellis string was too small I took it out. The four sides of the pvc pipe with the learge leaves seemed to hold up the plant off of the ground which was my intention. Where the plant is gets a lot of wind from the front. For the pepper plants I think the ultimato looks better.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located in Zone 7A--- Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on May 11, 2013.
Gardendoc,
Thanks for the video. I have used the Ultimato in the past with miserable results but now realize my error after watching the video.
The cross pieces need to be attached so they will remain attached as the pressure from the growing plant pushes outward.
I think I was not paying attention to putting those cross bars on correctly....some popped off.
I am thinking the ones that popped off were put on from the outside so when the plant pushes out----POP...sounds basic but I think I missed it.
I am planning to dig out all the pieces and start using them again this year for peppers.
Maybe also for zucchini which I also try to keep from dragging on the ground. I did find by putting my fert. strip across the short side and placing the zucchini plants more in the middle of the box they did not lean so much onto the ground....but still could use some support as the plants get so huge.....
Judi
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on May 11, 2013.
Maybe also for zucchini which I also try to keep from dragging on the ground. I did find by putting my fert. strip across the short side and placing the zucchini plants more in the middle of the box they did not lean so much onto the ground....but still could use some support as the plants get so huge.....
Judi
I do 2 zucchini/squash like that... way more stable. However, I found that they do exert a lot of leaning pressure when they get big. I tried just staking each plant... bad idea. Next, I tried the 4 stakes in the corners of the box with twine rungs wrapped around... didn't hold up to the weight of mature plants.
Finally, what did work very well was the pea fence. It fit as a rectangle, with the legs straddling the box along the long sides. If I needed to stick some legs into the box in places, it was ok. I was prepared to tie the cage to the box around each end, but it never became necessary. As the plants grew, I slipped the leaves through the fence and let the stems rest on the rungs. That helped balance and stabilize the plants. Ventilation was better too.
Mickie
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located in Zone 7A--- Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on May 11, 2013.
Great idea Mickie,
I have only used the pea fences for tomatos but have a few that are single that I could use.
Judi
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on May 11, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located in Zone 7A--- Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on May 11, 2013.
Great idea Mickie,
I have only used the pea fences for tomatos but have a few that are single that I could use.
Judi
I find using the pea fences expanding to most of my garden. My green beans were always a tangled mess when I tried to harvest them. Tada!! Pea fences to the rescue! This year I will use them on my corn, broccoli, peppers and eggplants as well.
I wait for the sales coupled with the $25-50-100 coupon promotions. I think Im up to 32 fences now...
Mickie
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 30, 2013.
Its the spring season and the forum has been getting a lot of questions from home gardeners about the initial setup of their first Earthbox(es). How much mix to use, type of mix, fertilizer, etc.
Heres a video our production team shot a couple of years ago about the intitial setup of sub-irrigated containers using an Earthbox as the example. Note this pre development of some of my custom EB tools and improved setup strategies.
http://msucares.com/gardenvideos/videos/spring/selfirrcont.html
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, tag. This user is located in Fleming Island, FL, Zone 8. This was originally posted on May 30, 2013,
Nice video GD. With that shirt your almost as good looking as me and you should be living in Florida.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 30, 2013.
tag, the MS Gulf Coast is pretty close
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on May 30, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, tag. This user is located in Fleming Island, FL, Zone 8. This was originally posted on May 30, 2013,
...and you should be living in Florida.
Well give him an associate membership.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, Emnation. This user is located in Zone 7, Springfield, Virginia / DC metro area. This was originally posted on May 30, 2013.
Thanks for sharing your videos and tips, Gardendoc! I used a bulb digger to create holes for my plants -- great idea. I also installed two Ultomato sets in my pepper box following your guidance.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 16, 2013.
Here's the latest video we shot this morning at the UNF. This demonstrates a quick and easy way to transition between crops within the same season. We grew a crop of mustard spinach and harvested last week. With 3 more months of hot weather we want to keep these EBs in production without a complete renovation of the EBs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMemiA4_lm8&feature=youtu.be
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, LaurainFL. This user is located in Zone 8b/9a, NW Florida. This was originally posted on June 16, 2013.
I like that idea, very cool. But you're not refreshing the fertilizer strip. So, does that mean that the follow-up crop needs to be a light feeder?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 16, 2013.
I find when growing leafy crops the strip does not have to be refreshed mid season. When I transition tomatoes, peppers and eggplant I will refresh the strip
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Full Member, AverageDude. This was originally posted on June 16, 2013.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing and keep them coming!!!
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Global Moderator Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a- near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on June 16, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 16, 2013.
Here's the latest video we shot this morning at the UNF. This demonstrates a quick and easy way to transition between crops within the same season. We grew a crop of mustard spinach and harvested last week. With 3 more months of hot weather we want to keep these EBs in production without a complete renovation of the EBs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMemiA4_lm8&feature=youtu.be
Love these videos. Keep them coming. Direct. How to. To the point. Really nice.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on June 16, 2013.
Is it possible that you can show us your whole garden. I am interested in what you have your boxes sitting on. I am looking for a way to raise my boxes higher. Love your videos. Thanking you in advance.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, sueskay. This was originally posted on June 17, 2013.
Kelp4less sells Calcium Nitrate granules in two forms, Calcium Nitrate Calcinit, and Calcium Nitrate fertilizer. Which one do we use, or is there any difference?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 17, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, sueskay. This was originally posted on June 17, 2013.
Kelp4less sells Calcium Nitrate granules in two forms, Calcium Nitrate Calcinit, and Calcium Nitrate fertilizer. Which one do we use, or is there any difference?
We use plain old calcium nitrate.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on June 17, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, sueskay. This was originally posted on June 17, 2013.
Kelp4less sells Calcium Nitrate granules in two forms, Calcium Nitrate Calcinit, and Calcium Nitrate fertilizer. Which one do we use, or is there any difference?
I use the Calcium nitrate (calcinit). I didnt find anything at kelp4less listed as calcium nitrate fertilizer. I would be concerned about other added elements as a fertilizer. The calcinit is just what it is: calcium nitrate.
http://www.kelp4less.com/shop/calcium-nitrate-calcinit/
Mickie
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Active Member, DizzyMissL. This user is located in 8A NC. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
Just wanted to let you know I LOVE your videos doc.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, FudgeyGirl. This user is located in Houston, Texas, Zone 9. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, sueskay. This was originally posted on June 17, 2013.
Kelp4less sells Calcium Nitrate granules in two forms, Calcium Nitrate Calcinit, and Calcium Nitrate fertilizer. Which one do we use, or is there any difference?
I wondered the same thing when I visited the kelp4less website. There are two descriptions for the same item..."Calcium Nitrate (calcinit), granular fertilizer solution grade....calcium nitrate is a fully water soluble nitrogen and calcium fertilizer granular material..."
Just search using calcinit. FYI, I ordered a 4lbs. yesterday evening and they have already sent it out todays mail with USPS. Thats fast service. Its also in sale!
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Psyche. This user is located in Zone 7a, Maryland. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
Any thoughts on their pulverized dolomite?
http://www.kelp4less.com/shop/dolomite/
The list is for the % is the MgO/MgCO3 and CaO/CaCO3 not just Mg and Ca so Im not sure how to compare the 1/2 ratio.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Psyche. This user is located in Zone 7a, Maryland. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
Any thoughts on their pulverized dolomite?
http://www.kelp4less.com/shop/dolomite/
The list is for the % is the MgO/MgCO3 and CaO/CaCO3 not just Mg and Ca so Im not sure how to compare the 1/2 ratio.
Pulverized is fine I prefer to work with the pelletized product. I don't pay attention to the absolute Mg/Ca ratios.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, dalupus. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
I was wondering what the plastic is you are using to cover the boxes. I saw the video where you said to use plastic and just tuck it in but I am not sure what type of plastic that is or where to get it.
Do your boxes not get too hot using the black tops? I am about 60 miles north of you and know it is in the 90s almost every day now this time of year.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Psyche. This user is located in Zone 7a, Maryland. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
Any thoughts on their pulverized dolomite?
http://www.kelp4less.com/shop/dolomite/
The list is for the % is the MgO/MgCO3 and CaO/CaCO3 not just Mg and Ca so Im not sure how to compare the 1/2 ratio.
At $64.95 for 35lbs, I wouldn't worry about the ratios. I prefer to go to Lowes and buy dolomitic lime for 40lbs/under $5.
Mickie
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 23, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, dalupus. This was originally posted on June 22, 2013.
I was wondering what the plastic is you are using to cover the boxes. I saw the video where you said to use plastic and just tuck it in but I am not sure what type of plastic that is or where to get it.
Do your boxes not get too hot using the black tops? I am about 60 miles north of you and know it is in the 90s almost every day now this time of year.
The plastic comes from Lowes and is 3mil, I think. I'm not concerned about the cover color and EB temp. For one thing, most of the time the canopy of the vegetables is covering the EB top.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 23, 2013.
There's been a bit of discussion on using the "snack" lately, so for the next installment of video tips I'm addressing how I use and apply calcium nitrate.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GECABB5pJgg&feature=youtu.be
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on June 25, 2013.
Gardendoc,
Thank you again for your videos. You are using 1gal/hr emmitters and hooked up to your irrigation system. How much time do you run it for and how do you handle the time difference that each box may require more water than the other.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on June 25, 2013.
Do you snack your squash plants and pepper plants or just the tomato?
Thanks again.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 25, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on June 25, 2013.
Do you snack your squash plants and pepper plants or just the tomato?
Thanks again.
Snack everything
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 25, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, BDumler2. This user is located in Meridian, ID Zone 6 or 7. This was originally posted on June 25, 2013.
Gardendoc,
Thank you again for your videos. You are using 1gal/hr emmitters and hooked up to your irrigation system. How much time do you run it for and how do you handle the time difference that each box may require more water than the other.
I don't necessarily worry about individual EB water consumption, I look at water delivery per zone.
My tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are on the same zone, a total of 64 EBs. I base the zone needs on the tomato (highest water usage) and run the irrigation system a total of 90 min/day or 1.5 gallons per EB. Last year I run the system 120 min but am able to reduce run time with the tucked cover capturing rain water
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, dalupus. This was originally posted on June 25, 2013.
45 EBs worth of tomatoes, peppers and squash!!! How many EBs do you have total?
Do you snack the EBs from the time they are seedlings or do you wait a little while for them to get bigger?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on June 26, 2013.
111 EBs for now. After the transplants have been put in the snack starts
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on July 12, 2013.
We are at the end of our spring tomato season and wanted to share what the mainly determinate heirloom plants look like in our hot and humid deep south. With all the discussion on how to treat leaf disease problems, let me say that I've gotten away from spraying as much fungicide as I used to, this season only twice. You want tomatoes not beautiful plants. Our 33 tomato EBs produced almost 400lbs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Wb4gq2Jvk&feature=youtu.be
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, FudgeyGirl. This user is located in Houston, Texas, Zone 9. This was originally posted on July 12, 2013.
Gardendoc,
Thank you for sharing your garden and your wisdom with us all. What you said about wanting tomatoes not beautiful plants put it all in perspective for me. I went outside and took a look at my few tomato plants and realized its not all that bad!
So look forward to your next video!
Thank you for all you do!
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, baileyj. This user is located in Zone 7A--- Annapolis, Maryland. This was originally posted on July 12, 2013.
Gardendoc,
Wow...a picture is worth so much more than words !
I have been struggling, worrying that my leaf issues from the moisture/rain were dooming my harvest....very depressing after all this work...
Your video puts it in perspective for me..
Most post pictures of beautiful plants...it is not always the reality we deal with.
I am going to ease up on the spray and worry after watching that helpful video!
Thanks,
Judi
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on July 13, 2013.
I just want to say thanks for the interest that this topic generated.
In a little over three months there have been more than 5000 views. I had no idea this was going to happen.
I will keep doing these short videos and sharing time saving tips, and new tools to make your EB gardening easier and more enjoyable.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Sun City Linda. This user is located in SoCal Inland 9a. This was originally posted on July 13, 2013.
Yes, thank you Garden Doc! Everybody longs for the perfect tomato plant. You know the one with full green leaves and ripe fruit peeking out from the lush canopy. HA! Reality where I live is trying to get ripe fruit before the heat, disease and or mites decimate the plants! Just great that you made this video!
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, alwayslearning. This user is located in SF Bay Area near SJ Zone 8b. This was originally posted on July 19, 2013.
In your set-up video you use a putty knife to tuck in the edges of a plastic covering when not using the elasticized mulch covers (aka "shower caps"). I've found putty knives very helpful for setting up also. An inexpensive, narrow plastic one is great for preparing the fertilizer trench and for digging out synthetic fert at the end of the season. A broader one is great for making the "bread loaf" shaped mound and results in spilling less potting mix when I put on the EB mulch cover.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, movrshakr. This user is located in Zone 10a - near Cape Canaveral. This was originally posted on August 19, 2013.
Wow. Heres to a quick recovery for you.
As for topics, trellising comes up a lot, but there are so many variations, I dont know how a video could be done on that--except for a specific single style.
Differences in organic vs chemical fertilizer in an EarthBox ?
Different locations for the strip?
Techniques for the holes?
Direct seeding?
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on August 22, 2013.
I've had a couple of questions on layout and my bench design, as soon as I'm mobile Ill do this one.
I don't prune my tomatoes, sometimes the bottom leaves for air flow if I have the time.
I get my Cal nitrate from local feed and seed stores, nice to live in rural community
-
I'm really appreciative that the forum is back up and running. I will continue to add tips and other ideas to help make growing in your EarthBoxes enjoyable and delicious.
-
Finally shot a new video looking at cover options
https://youtu.be/5PMuXkW3JXY
-
Here's my latest video tip on how I grow and transplant seedlings into my EarthBoxes. If you're interested on how I cut the perfect holes in the covers PM me.
https://youtu.be/ATzgxwurLYc
-
I harvested onions this weekend, https://youtu.be/y_7Yz_qFovU
-
These are some great videos! Thank you.
-
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, Psyche. This user is located in Zone 7a, Maryland. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, gardendoc. This user is located in Ocean Springs, MS Zone 9a. This was originally posted on May 3, 2013.
Weve been having the conversation about supporting peppers lately, so I wanted to show everyone how I use the Ultimato. This works well for peppers as well as eggplants
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AS6U2ILvYxs&feature=youtu.be
Thanks for the video. That was easier than I thought.
What is the spacing of the ultomato for 6 plants? The two in the middle would be under a span.
I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to say I went and priced the Ultimato system yesterday. I'd like to know if anyone who uses EB's could justify $50 a box for this staking system?
I guess these things may have really gone UP in price since we started using EB's in the early 2000's.
Does anyone else find this price high for this staking system?
-
Ernie, the Ultimato is expensive. I was lucky about 10 years ago Lowes was end of the season dumping of theirs and I bought 65 sets for $1.75 each.
-
I could live with a deal like that. I have the pea fence cages made up for my 23 EB's but was just thinking about trying the Ultimato for peppers. I'll stick with the pea fence cages for now. Thanks for letting me know.
-
The Ultimato works pretty good for peppers, has issues with tomatoes
-
You’ve got this down to a science! So inspiring! Would you share brand names for dolomite & fertilizers- I’m a newbie & have no idea what pelletized and ag grade product you’re talking about but I have 12 boxes so it’s got to be cheap!? Thanks so much for the video-exciting to see your “know how!””
-
Thanks, garden or lawn lime pelletier and ag grade fertilizer is something like 10-10-10
-
I have something that looks like the Ultimato (not sure; I bought it when I was planting in the ground); how do the spikey parts at the bottom work with the earthbox thing that separates the soil from the water? Does it sit on top, or work it's way through the holes?
-
Only push down until it hits the reservoir screen. For tomatoes it may not provide enough support, but works fine for peppers and eggplants
-
Good morning gardendoc, I apologize that I don’t quite know yet where to post my questions. So I was reading some of your tips and tricks. Accidentally yesterday I tried to post a comment but I replied to myself which is not what I wanted to do. I looked at one of your videos regarding planting tomatoes and your fertilizer strip was down the center of the box. And to avoid asking you a question that I’m sure many have asked I searched “fertilizer strip placement” but it took me back to you. So I apologize. If anyone has tips on how to navigate I would appreciate.
Meanwhile I am curious as to what your technique for fertilizer strip placement is now. Also, when I removed one of my covers yesterday from last year‘s planting it was not completely obvious to me where the strip is. Should I visibly be able to see the old fertilizer strip? (If I went right by the instructions I guess I can assume that the strip was along the front of the box and the 2 tomatoes were placed in the back right and left corners) Maybe I’m better off since this is only my second year, just removing the top two or 3 inches of soil in the box? Thank you
-
Bluebird, I think gardendoc uses his own innovations sometimes, but here are the "official" plant placement guides for each of the different boxes. https://earthbox.com/learning-center/plant-placement-charts (https://earthbox.com/learning-center/plant-placement-charts)
-
Thank you Cathy and yes I have that chart since it came with the replanting kit and that is the plant placement and fertilizer strip placement that I used last year on my original box. But I looked at gardendoc’s video and he put the fertilizer strip straight down the center of the box and the tomatoes in opposite corners of the box. So I am trying to determine where the fertilizer strip should be from all of you with experience when replanting a box. Have you read or seen videos regarding this? I guess I could post a new question I just hate to post stuff that has been answered many times.
-
Bluebird, the exact fertilizer placement isn't critical. I have placed it down the center lengthwise, up against the edge lengthwise and as you've pointed out in the center across the middle. Don't get hung up, the fertilizer placement is really dictated by the crop you're growing
-
For example, arugula versus tomatoes
-
Perfect, gardendoc and thank you for your help. Before I saw your reply I replanted one of my boxes with two tomatoes based on the replanting diagram which was same as last year. Good to know that the fertilizer strip placement is not critical and I may experiment with my second box and do it differently.
I’m still a little unsure of myself about not pulling the whole box apart just to check all parts and then reusing some of the soil and replanting. Mainly because people have mentioned roots and I don’t want anything obstructing the holes and interfering with the proper function of it all. But when I dug through the dirt in my first box, large roots were not a problem and I did check the watering tube for any obstructive debris. Oh well, live and learn, right? I used to work with a surgeon and whenever I would say, “wow, interesting, I didn’t know that”, his standard reply would be “well, every day’s a school day”. He was right and I think of that often.
I hope to have time this afternoon to look around on the forum and see if I can find posts regarding indeterminate versus determinate tomato plants. My biggest question is do the determinate varieties tend to be less of a challenge to stake due to slightly smaller at maturity plants or is that a myth? Last year I planted indeterminant and although fruitful they were a nightmare to support. Mainly because I didn’t know what I was getting myself into and now I have a little experience. I mean I knew they would get big and would need staking or a trellis of some sort but I had no idea how big.
Anyway, thanks for your help:)
-
Bluebird, thanks. I grow primarily determinate and you do have to stake them