EarthBox Forum
EarthBox Chat => Questions and Answers => Topic started by: EarthBoxAdmin on June 14, 2017, 08:19:24 am
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, John. This user is located in Zone 5. This was originally posted on May 12, 2011.
Cucumbers
This year, we are receiving many, many calls about cucumbers. Many of our strictly tomato EarthBox users are expanding their EarthBox gardens to include their second favorite crop; the cucumber. Here's some quick tips about growing them!
1. Cukes are particularly picky about being picked! The vines should be harvested daily. Don't wait until the fruits look like footballs. If a cucumber grows too big, the plants productions slows or sometimes stops altogether because the seeds are hardening or aging in the fruits. This process sends a signal to the plant that the season is over. The plant will then naturally decline.
2. Cucumbers grow "grabbers" or tendrils. This plant naturally tries to grow UP. Providing a trellis will allow for airflow between the foliage. The EarthBox Staking System is the ideal solution. This accessory can easily be added to your EarthBox at any time and your EarthBox will still remain mobile.
3. Watch for the dreaded cucumber beetle. They feed on young cucurbit plants and transmit bacterial wilt that will not be visible at first. Many safe organic products are available that will control and prevent the cucumber beetle from doing damage (not harming beneficial) while preventing powdery mildew; a fungus that is common to cucumbers. Follow label directions. Horticultural soaps will not effectively control this beetle.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on June 22, 2011.
I would have to add 2 things to these cucumber growing tips that are excellent. Beware of powdery mildew, particularly in humid climates, it can be detrimental to the plants (use a fungus control weekly). Second, consider successive plantings, most people will plant all the cucumbers at the same time, this usually creates an enormous amount of harvest at once, and an early ending to a wonderful garden producer. I do consecutive biweekly plantings from mid May till July 15, this way, I usually have cucumbers from the third week of June until killing frosts (hopefully late October). Before I started doing this, my plants got tired, went into early retirement, just when my tomatoes really started to ripen, I had no cukes to speak of. Right now, my 4 cucumber boxes have a maximum of 2 plants in each box, this weekend, they will each get a new young addition. I learned this successive planting trick from one of the best "truck farmers" in our area about 20 years ago. He would do this with direct seeding by the row in his fields right up until early July, I have found with the EarthBox I can stretch it till mid July.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL, Zone 9B. This was originally posted on June 22, 2011.
I almost missed this post, I thought it was an administrative issue based on the topic.
So, Kathy, with 2 cuc plants at a time, you keep weening the old and replacing with the new. And, you have enough boxes that you do that every two weeks. I'm picturing the first box gets planted, the next box 2 weeks later, etc. At the end of 8 weeks you're back to box one and exchange the old plants for the new. I've never grown cucs, but plan to in future. Sorry if this is an ignorant question. Thanks for your help.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on June 22, 2011.
Actually, I should have been more clear, I never replace the old plants, just add a new plant every 2 weeks, and I do 5 plants per box. I also start a new "late cuke" box or two right about now, as I just pulled the last of my radishes from an EarthBox, and by this weekend my spinach box will be retired.
Good idea on the topic...I think I will start a new topic Gardening Tip of the Day and move Johns and the following posts.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL, Zone 9B. This was originally posted on June 22, 2011.
So you start with a maximum of 2 then add? And there is no problem with the stronger plants being stingy with the nutrients?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on June 22, 2011.
Absolutely no problem, tested and proven for several years.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, BronxBaby. This user is located in Bronx, NY Zone 7b. This was originally posted on June 22, 2011.
What about light weight garden cloth for the bugs? Will it also protect from mildew?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on June 24, 2011.
My guess would be no, the netting would not protect from mildew.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on February 23, 2012.
If growing your cucumbers in a greenhouse or have issues with pollination, try a parthenocarpic (grow fruits without pollination) variety.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, oldsarge. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
I have read your growing method and am using it this year. I planted 3- 4 cuc plant last weekend and have six more about 1 high in a green house. once they get a little bigger I will transplant one each week. Tampa is now running on a cool night high 50s day time close to 80. things are beginning to happen. looking forward to a great growing season and lots of pickles. thanks again for a great idea. big sarge
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
I am envious Sarge....I am a little less than 3 months away before planting cukes in an EarthBox
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, ErnieHodge. This user is located in Lake Panasoffkee, FL, Zone 9a. This was originally posted on
March 6, 2012.
I'm glad I found this before I planted my cucumbers. (And by the way Kathy, Im trying the Alibi, County Fair and Sweet Success. I may not have enough EBs.)
What type of fungus control do most FL EBers use? I would like to know before I need to get something under control.
As far as beetles, I have Spinosad that killed the little rascals that almost did my cucs in last fall so I will use that again.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, ErnieHodge. This user is located in Lake Panasoffkee, FL, Zone 9a. This was originally posted on
March 6, 2012.
I'm glad I found this before I planted my cucumbers. (And by the way Kathy, Im trying the Alibi, County Fair and Sweet Success. I may not have enough EBs.)
What type of fungus control do most FL EBers use? I would like to know before I need to get something under control.
As far as beetles, I have Spinosad that killed the little rascals that almost did my cucs in last fall so I will use that again.
Ernie: If you are not Pro Organic....the best is Funginol also known as Daconil, excellent and also prevents late blight on tomatoes. Love the Alibi and the Sweet Success! Good Luck!
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
I will 2nd Kathy's response that sprays with Chlorothalonil as an active ingredient work well. Its better to prevent fungus than catch up killing it. However, Chlorothalonil did great for me. Having grown Sweet Success for a couple years, it is great tasting and nearly seedless should you isolate it from other varieties.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, seansmum. This user is located in Queensbury, NY, Zone 4-5. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Having grown Sweet Success for a couple years, it is great tasting and nearly seedless should you isolate it from other varieties.
Why is that?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Instructions from Jung Seed The ultimate burpless cucumber for growing inside or outdoors. Produces loads of long, straight, spineless fruits 12 to 14 inches long by 2-1/2 inch diameter. Sweet, mild flesh is seedless if grown away from other cucumbers. Sets quality fruit without pollen. Good disease resistance. 1983 AAS Winner.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
I will 2nd Kathy's response that sprays with Chlorothalonil as an active ingredient work well. Its better to prevent fungus than catch up killing it. However, Chlorothalonil did great for me. Having grown Sweet Success for a couple years, it is great tasting and nearly seedless should you isolate it from other varieties.
Now, I am going to second this....best control is prevention, spraying every 7 days before the powdery mildew, etc shows up is the best control~!
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL, Zone 9B. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
How safe is it for beneficial insects?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Okay for bees, fact sheet below.
http://www.agf.gov.bc.ca/pesticides/infosheets/chlorothalonil.pdf
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, ErnieHodge. This user is located in Lake Panasoffkee, FL, Zone 9a. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Thanks for the reply's and is this something I can get at Lowes or Home Depot?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, seansmum. This user is located in Queensbury, NY, Zone 4-5. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Instructions from Jung Seed The ultimate burpless cucumber for growing inside or outdoors. Produces loads of long, straight, spineless fruits 12 to 14 inches long by 2-1/2 inch diameter. Sweet, mild flesh is seedless if grown away from other cucumbers. Sets quality fruit without pollen. Good disease resistance. 1983 AAS Winner.
I'm sorry, but, I really wanted to know the reason why, so I can understand how plants affect each other.
Sue
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, seansmum. This user is located in Queensbury, NY, Zone 4-5. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Instructions from Jung Seed The ultimate burpless cucumber for growing inside or outdoors. Produces loads of long, straight, spineless fruits 12 to 14 inches long by 2-1/2 inch diameter. Sweet, mild flesh is seedless if grown away from other cucumbers. Sets quality fruit without pollen. Good disease resistance. 1983 AAS Winner.
I'm sorry, but, I really wanted to know the reason why, so I can understand how plants affect each other.
Sue
In a nutshell... if there is pollen floating around the air from other cuke varieties, the Sweet Success will become fertile and produce seeds. The fruit will form, regardless... fertilized (with seeds) or not (no seeds). This is true of other seedless or parthenocarpic varieties.
Mickie
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Sue, you have a good question. Many new hybrid varieties of vegetables are more sensitive to being cross-pollinated, that is for example having a bee carry pollen from one plant to another. The Sweet Success cucumber is one that if pollinated by pollen from the blossoms of the Alibi cucumber will result in Sweet Success cucumbers that have misshapen fruit with more seeds. If you want to enjoy the full benefits of this variety, and grow them close to your Alibi cucumbers, then consider covering the Sweet Success with on of the EarthBox insect nets. The Sweet Success will churn out cucumbers with no bees needed.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, seansmum. This user is located in Queensbury, NY, Zone 4-5. This was originally posted on March 7, 2012.
Thanks,
This is great information. I'm trying to learn as much as I can about growing. I find it fascinating!
Sue
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Sue, you have a good question. Many new hybrid varieties of vegetables are more sensitive to being cross-pollinated, that is for example having a bee carry pollen from one plant to another. The Sweet Success cucumber is one that if pollinated by pollen from the blossoms of the Alibi cucumber will result in Sweet Success cucumbers that have misshapen fruit with more seeds. If you want to enjoy the full benefits of this variety, and grow them close to your Alibi cucumbers, then consider covering the Sweet Success with on of the EarthBox insect nets. The Sweet Success will churn out cucumbers with no bees needed.
I have grown my sweet success cukes next to other varieties for years and get absolutely no misshaped fruit??? I cant say about the seeds, because I have never noticed (doesnt matter to me) But I grow mine on the staking system and get beautiful long straight fruits, and with my succession planting method by the end of the year, they are sometimes mixed in the same box.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, chibearsinfo. This user is located in Zone 4. This was originally posted on March 8, 2012.
I have heard the cukes do not transplant well. Do you direct seed or do you transplant cukes?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on March 8, 2012.
I transplant mine.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 8, 2012.
Having tried peat pellets and also peat pots, my experiences may be different than others. I noticed cucumbers with 4 to 6 true leaves growing in peat pots did not do as well when moved to an EarthBox. However, cucumbers with 1 to 2 true leaves growing in peat pellets did excellent when transplanted to an EarthBox. Those are two different experiences with more than one variable, and I am sure that peat pots are used successfully by many. The larger peat or coco pellets found in chain stores for starting tomatoes are what I am using this year, in conjunction with a Burpee Self Watering Eco Friendly seed starter.
Kathy, of the EarthBox company, staggers her plantings of cucumbers to extend the season. This is a good tip that I will experiment doing this year. Different cucumber varieties have different harvest periods, such as 2, 3, or 4 weeks, which makes succession planting a good choice. Mjb8743s experiences got me to try a 2/3 pattern planting of 5 pickling/fresh eating cucumbers to an EarthBox, which did wonderful for me for the high-producing, 4-6 vine, parthnocarpic variety that I grew last summer.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 8, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on March 8, 2012.
I transplant mine.
I have never had any trouble transplanting cukes or any of the cucurbits. I do both, but mostly transplants.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Jr. Member, oldsarge. This was originally posted on March 11, 2012.
PUT IN THREE CUC PLANTS LAST WEEK AND WILL START 2 MORE TOMORROW IN THE MORNING. 6 SQUASH PLANTS, 5 PEPPER PLANTS, 8 ROMA, 3 BIG BOYS AND CHERRY AND GRAPE TOMATOS, BEANS PEAS AND CABBAGE SHOULD HOLD ME THRU THE SUMMER, LETTUCE AND HERBS ARE ALSO INCLUDED. I FORGOT 2 BABY ARTICOKE PLANTS GOING STRONG. NOT BAD FOR 82 AND DISABLED VET. LOVE IT.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL, Zone 9B. This was originally posted on March 11, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
I will 2nd Kathy's response that sprays with Chlorothalonil as an active ingredient work well. Its better to prevent fungus than catch up killing it. However, Chlorothalonil did great for me. Having grown Sweet Success for a couple years, it is great tasting and nearly seedless should you isolate it from other varieties.
Now, I am going to second this....best control is prevention, spraying every 7 days before the powdery mildew, etc shows up is the best control~!
Is Chlorothalonil a certified organic product?
How does it compare to using a copper product?
How is mildew vs early blight distinguished?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on March 11, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL, Zone 9B. This was originally posted on March 11, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, deep. This user is located in Zone 5a, Northern Indiana. This was originally posted on March 6, 2012.
I will 2nd Kathy's response that sprays with Chlorothalonil as an active ingredient work well. Its better to prevent fungus than catch up killing it. However, Chlorothalonil did great for me. Having grown Sweet Success for a couple years, it is great tasting and nearly seedless should you isolate it from other varieties.
Now, I am going to second this....best control is prevention, spraying every 7 days before the powdery mildew, etc shows up is the best control~!
Is Chlorothalonil a certified organic product?
How does it compare to using a copper product?
How is mildew vs early blight distinguished?
Not organic. I understand its much better than copper. I don't know the details.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, writeone. This user is located in Orlando, FL, Zone 9B. This was originally posted on March 24, 2012.
Actually, I should have been more clear, I never replace the old plants, just add a new plant every 2 weeks, and I do 5 plants per box. I also start a new "late cuke" box or two right about now, as I just pulled the last of my radishes from an EarthBox, and by this weekend my spinach box will be retired.
Good idea on the topic...I think I will start a new topic Gardening Tip of the Day and move Johns and the following posts.
Can this work with tomatoes too? I have two tom plants to be transplanted into a EB. One is about a foot tall, the other is 3"-4". If I plant them both, will the larger one steal the nutrients from the younger? Or will it work much like the succession planting with cucumbers?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, ErnieHodge. This user is located in Lake Panasoffkee, FL, Zone 9a. This was originally posted on March 25, 2012.
OK,
Here's a question for Kathy and anyone else who plants multiply types of cucumbers.
How far apart do I need to keep the EBs?
Right now I have three Sweet Success in an EB and its on one side of the house. I plan on putting in two more EBs with Alibi and County Fair. I need to know if I can put the EBs with the last two next to each other and let them share a trellis. Or if that's not advisable how far apart should they be.
Ill be hooking the EBs to the AWS so I need to know how to lay out my garden. It will be on the other side of the house on the slab. We live in a stilt house and have three foot of concrete all the way around the house. Some of the EBs that will be on the side with seven will be visible to the other three that are on the front of the other side. (I hope that makes sense.)
Since I got spoiled last Fall with the AWS I'm getting tired of hand watering the couple of EBs I have set up right now until I get the AWS set up on the other side of the house.
Thanks for any ides on EB spacing for cucumbers.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Horticulturalist The Earthbox Hero Member, kathy. This user is located in the mountains of PA Zone 5, almost 4. This was originally posted on March 26, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, ErnieHodge. This user is located in Lake Panasoffkee, FL, Zone 9a. This was originally posted on March 25, 2012.
OK,
Here's a question for Kathy and anyone else who plants multiply types of cucumbers.
How far apart do I need to keep the EBs?
Right now I have three Sweet Success in an EB and its on one side of the house. I plan on putting in two more EBs with Alibi and County Fair. I need to know if I can put the EBs with the last two next to each other and let them share a trellis. Or if that's not advisable how far apart should they be.
Ill be hooking the EBs to the AWS so I need to know how to lay out my garden. It will be on the other side of the house on the slab. We live in a stilt house and have three foot of concrete all the way around the house. Some of the EBs that will be on the side with seven will be visible to the other three that are on the front of the other side. (I hope that makes sense.)
Since I got spoiled last Fall with the AWS I'm getting tired of hand watering the couple of EBs I have set up right now until I get the AWS set up on the other side of the house.
Thanks for any ides on EB spacing for cucumbers.
I am not sure what you mean about spacing, I run my Earth Boxes in a row right down the edge of a walkway, so all 5 cuke boxes are together (like a train) Near the end of the season, I even end up with a mixed variety box or two, when I have a spare box or two sitting around because and earlier crop like spinach is done.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, ErnieHodge. This user is located in Lake Panasoffkee, FL, Zone 9a. This was originally posted on March 26, 2012.
Kathy,
What I mean is how close to each other makes a difference as far as cross pollination with cukes. I just dont want to them to physically close together. Right now I have two boxes next to each other that will be Alibi and County Fair. I can separate them if need be or if it makes any difference in pollination. I had just set up a trellis that I can break in half any move easily if the two different types should be kept apart.
Thanks for your knowledge of cucumbers.
Ernie
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Active Member, dandeanroeh. This user is located in Zone 5-6 (Southern Nebraska). This post was originally posted on August 12, 2013.
I planted peas in two staked EBs this spring. When the peas were done in mid/late June I replanted the boxes with cukes around the 1st of July. The cukes were doing fine and growing like weeds until around mid August. Now they are wilting and are pretty much done for. The same thing happened last year to cukes I planted in early July. Last year I chalked it up to a very hot summer but this summer has been very mild. Why do my second planting of cukes always wilt and die in August? All I can come up with is that the fertilizer peters out and the plants are left without food. Any other ideas or am I missing something on the planting times?
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Hero Member, mjb8743. This user is located in Zone 7, South NJ, Garden State. This was originally posted on August 12, 2012.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Active Member, dandeanroeh. This user is located in Zone 5-6 (Southern Nebraska). This post was originally posted on August 12, 2013.
I planted peas in two staked EBs this spring. When the peas were done in mid/late June I replanted the boxes with cukes around the 1st of July. The cukes were doing fine and growing like weeds until around mid August. Now they are wilting and are pretty much done for. The same thing happened last year to cukes I planted in early July. Last year I chalked it up to a very hot summer but this summer has been very mild. Why do my second planting of cukes always wilt and die in August? All I can come up with is that the fertilizer peters out and the plants are left without food. Any other ideas or am I missing something on the planting times?
1-- This topic is for Tip of the Day... your question belongs in its own thread.
2-- Wilting suggests Bacterial Wilt Disease caused by the cucumber beetle. Also, by mid-summer, the mildews are running rampant, and if you haven't been spraying with a good fungicide, it can take over pretty fast.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, jeaninemyatt. This was originally posted on July 3, 2014.
I have found a recipe for fungus, also for preventive used weekly. 4 teaspoons of baking soda, 1 teaspoon of liquid dish detergent , dawn or ivory, mix into 1 gallon of water. Don't shake just swirl to mix. Put in spray bottle and spray leaves if already infected spray daily, will take up to 5 days to really see improvement. Was looking about zucchini but said also good for cucumbers. I haven't had to try it because also read that if pattern on zucchini than that is the norm for the type of zucchini I have. Had googled "spots on zucchini leaves" and found this.
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Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Guest, cushman350. This was originally posted on July 4, 2014.
Disclaimer: This post was originally posted by Newbie, jeaninemyatt. This was originally posted on July 3, 2014.
I have found a recipe for fungus, also for preventive used weekly. 4 teaspoons of baking soda, 1 teaspoon of liquid dish detergent , dawn or ivory, mix into 1 gallon of water. Don't shake just swirl to mix. Put in spray bottle and spray leaves if already infected spray daily, will take up to 5 days to really see improvement. Was looking about zucchini but said also good for cucumbers. I haven't had to try it because also read that if pattern on zucchini than that is the norm for the type of zucchini I have. Had googled "spots on zucchini leaves" and found this.
Variegated leaves is natural and can be mistaken for powdery mildew at first.
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I like this idea ! Are there other fruits or vegetables that this technique works well on ?