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Author Topic: How can I winterize my strawberry plants ?  (Read 22294 times)
John
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Zone 5


« Reply #15 on: October 09, 2008, 10:04:17 AM »

The peat-based potting mix is naturally acidic.  Most mixes are in the range of 5.0-5.6.
I have used one cup of dolomite each planting season for my strawberries (no pine needles) and have not experienced any problems....So Far!   Peat mixes will always tend to go back to their naturally acidic state.
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Pennsylvania Certified Horticulturist (PCH)
fresh-air_freak
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Posts: 1


« Reply #16 on: October 13, 2008, 09:35:01 AM »

Thanks for all the good info. I had strawberries this year. I couldn't bring myself to not let them fruit.  Lots of growth, fair amount of fruit and runners that would probably supply the whole town.  I am in Connecticut, and am still picking berries.  Even at two or three at a time, its fun.  I too do not have a shelter for the box.  It is on a stair.  I think I should pull it onto the ground and cover it with mulch. Someone said Oak leaves because they wouldn't compact. then I was told no, not Oak.  Is straw my best choice? Although I'm not sure where I can get some. How thick a layer? And then a waterproof cover to keep out rain and sheet, etc.  At what point do I cut off all the foliage? Has anyone tried taking the babies indoors to grow over the winter to add to stock next yr? I hate to discard this whole new generation.  Any comments welcome. 
thanks.
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Donald1800
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Fontana, CA Zone 8


« Reply #17 on: October 13, 2008, 06:36:36 PM »

Again, there is no need to cut off any strawberry foliage.  I had strawberries in my raised bed SFG in N. Idaho, and I only covered with spoiled hay from local cattle/horse owners for free.  All plants came through -20*F winters with the only 'damage' being some leaves turned red.  Don't make it harder on your plants or you.

Donald1800
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squiredogs
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Posts: 69

Zone 7 - South Jersey


« Reply #18 on: October 17, 2008, 02:50:03 PM »

Can I just stop watering my tristar strawberries and leave them in the non-EB containers outside? I have those Nancy-Jane stacking planters. I'm in Zone 7. Or did I kill them already by not watering and letting them go dormant?
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Trishkie
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Posts: 130

No. California Zone 9 (Sunset zone 14)


« Reply #19 on: October 18, 2008, 08:15:33 PM »

Boy do I feel like a doofus - I just pulled up a strawberry plant. I either didn't know or had forgotten that they are not like annuals. And here in CA I hardly have snow and ice to contend with. Doh!

And not allowing it to fruit for a larger crop the 2nd year - wow!

My consolation is that the plant didn't produce hardly anything. A TON of runners. Hmmm... then again, maybe that would've produced more fruit next year. Doh!

Live and learn, eh?
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Donald1800
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Fontana, CA Zone 8


« Reply #20 on: October 18, 2008, 08:37:38 PM »

It's usually recommended to remove all flowers and runners from new first year strawberry starts to allow all energy to go to root and folage development until the fall, then allow flowers but still remove runners on day neutral strawberries.  Your first fall production of day neutral strawberries will be small but satisfying with better production on the following year.

I personally would recommend that all runners be removed until the year you plan to rejuvinate/replant an adjacent box.

Donald1800
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joy112854
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Zone 8B Crestview, Florida (close to Pensacola)


« Reply #21 on: April 13, 2009, 10:15:50 PM »

Donald:  I planted strawberries this past winter, they are producing strawberries, unfortunately, I added 2 cups of dolomite lime, instead of just one cup, they are producing strawberries, not many but some, lately I've noticed a lot of flowers on the plants and I guess what you would call runners?  Runners are those little growths coming off like new vines right?  You and I have pretty much the same weather and zone, should I leave them through the summer?  What happens next?  I'm not just new to the earthbox but new to gardening completely.   And do I add another cup of dolomite?  And when would I do this?  I was told to throw the plants away in July?   
joy   
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nashsnazzy
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Posts: 31

Zone 6b , Nashville Tn


« Reply #22 on: June 20, 2009, 02:32:54 PM »

Quick question for those who have done this succesfully, how many strawberries per box are you planting? I just ordered a 10 pack of the Winona Stawberries, they wont be here until next spring, but I wanted to move some existing strawberry plants into one box so I have something for next year.
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kittyhawk63
Guest
« Reply #23 on: June 21, 2009, 03:25:46 AM »

During the spring, my mom and I put out five hundred (500) strawberry plants in northern Ohio when I was a young teenager. When winter arrived, we had weeks on end that was below zero degrees at night, even reaching 21 below zero during  the daytime. We did not cut the strawberries back. We did cover them with a thick layer of straw. Otherwise, we left them alone. The next year they were "ready to go" and we had strawberries coming out of the wazoo our ears. There were no noticeable diseases. The plants looked healthy the whole growing season.

In EB's, you probably will want to cut them back due to overcrowding. I don't know anything about strawberry diseases. We never had to deal with them.
kh63
« Last Edit: June 21, 2009, 10:31:55 AM by kittyhawk63 » Logged
CeaseFire
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Posts: 519


North Central Mississippi - Zone 7b


« Reply #24 on: June 21, 2009, 09:01:27 AM »

I planted 3 EB with 8 strawberries recently.
Glad I used 8 per box, because so far 2 have died.
Maybe I'll end up with the EB required number of 6 after all.
Grow Boxes say you can grow 8 is why I planted that way.
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