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Author Topic: Staking Kit and placement of plants  (Read 2417 times)
HeleneB
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Posts: 8

Northern NJ - Zone 6


« on: June 28, 2009, 09:49:20 AM »

This is my 2nd year of planting heirloom tomatoes (Brandywine & Cherokee Purple) in EB (2 in each).  Following the instructions for plant placement (as far away from the fertilizer strip as possible), once my plants have taken off and really need staking they are 5 inches from the center where the staking poles and netting are located.  So, I am continually tying to the netting with at least 10" ties.  Is that how the staking Kit is intended to be used?  If I had followed the diagram for draping the netting how would the plants grow upright within the 2 layers?  These are indeterminate and grow very taller (much taller than the top of staking kit).  Any advice will be appreciated.
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KayakerNC
Hero Member
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Posts: 334


Eastern North Carolina USA - Zone-8


« Reply #1 on: June 28, 2009, 01:04:04 PM »

I am also having problems with the staking system. 
Next year I will plant my tomatoes catty-corner (as shown), and use Ultomato cages for each plant, along with the current staking system.
I intend to use wire-ties, the plastic outdoor ones, to also attach the Ultomato Cages to the EB staking system for more support.  Hopefully this will keep my plants happy while still allowing the EB mobility on my patio.

 ------------------
 x                      T
        x
               x
  T                 x  O
 -----------------
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KayakerNC
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Mt Clemens, MI
Newport, NC
LavendulaFleur
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Posts: 400


So Cal (The Valley) Zone 10


« Reply #2 on: June 28, 2009, 03:45:50 PM »

I am also having problems with the staking system. 
Next year I will plant my tomatoes catty-corner (as shown), and use Ultomato cages for each plant, along with the current staking system.
I intend to use wire-ties, the plastic outdoor ones, to also attach the Ultomato Cages to the EB staking system for more support.  Hopefully this will keep my plants happy while still allowing the EB mobility on my patio.

 ------------------
 x                      T
        x
               x
  T                 x  O
 -----------------

Are the X's where you put the Ultomato stakes?
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KayakerNC
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 334


Eastern North Carolina USA - Zone-8


« Reply #3 on: June 28, 2009, 08:19:59 PM »

I am also having problems with the staking system. 
Next year I will plant my tomatoes catty-corner (as shown), and use Ultomato cages for each plant, along with the current staking system.
I intend to use wire-ties, the plastic outdoor ones, to also attach the Ultomato Cages to the EB staking system for more support.  Hopefully this will keep my plants happy while still allowing the EB mobility on my patio.

 ------------------
 x                      T
        x
               x
  T                 x  O
 -----------------

Are the X's where you put the Ultomato stakes?

Nope, the X's represents the fertilizer strip.   The Ultomatos will be surrounding each individual plant.
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KayakerNC
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Newport, NC
mjb8743
Hero Member
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Posts: 4114


Zone 7, sunset zone 32, South NJ, Garden State


« Reply #4 on: June 28, 2009, 09:32:21 PM »

This is my 2nd year of planting heirloom tomatoes (Brandywine & Cherokee Purple) in EB (2 in each).  Following the instructions for plant placement (as far away from the fertilizer strip as possible), once my plants have taken off and really need staking they are 5 inches from the center where the staking poles and netting are located.  So, I am continually tying to the netting with at least 10" ties.  Is that how the staking Kit is intended to be used?  If I had followed the diagram for draping the netting how would the plants grow upright within the 2 layers?  These are indeterminate and grow very taller (much taller than the top of staking kit).  Any advice will be appreciated.

One way used by several smart people is to place the fert strip across the box (front-to-back) dividing the box into 2 halves, and the two tomato plants each in their own half of the box. This will line the plants up with the netting on your staking system. Place the plants off-center towards the side so you get more distance from the fert strip. Cushman made a nice drawing of different options for plant placement. I'm referring to the middle option.

http://forum.earthbox.com/index.php?topic=4204.msg35243#msg35243

Mickie

« Last Edit: June 28, 2009, 10:02:46 PM by mjb8743 » Logged

93 EBs and growing... so how come there are never enough boxes??
the*blonded*one
Full Member
***
Posts: 71


Northeast Pennsylvania - Zone 5


« Reply #5 on: October 30, 2009, 01:30:18 PM »

I know I am late on this one, but wouldn't you want to keep the tomato plants as close to the water source (wicking) as possible. That is why I plant mine in the back corners (opposite side of the water fill tube) above the wicking areas...
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EB Advocate
Urban Gardener
mjb8743
Hero Member
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Posts: 4114


Zone 7, sunset zone 32, South NJ, Garden State


« Reply #6 on: October 30, 2009, 01:57:26 PM »

I know I am late on this one, but wouldn't you want to keep the tomato plants as close to the water source (wicking) as possible. That is why I plant mine in the back corners (opposite side of the water fill tube) above the wicking areas...

If a box is wicking properly, I doubt it would make any difference. Besides, the roots will gravitate toward (downward and to the corners) the water source anyway. I've seen lots of roots in the corner where the tube is... so it really doesn't seem to matter. The critical element here is to get the plants as far from the fert. strip as possible, and running the strip front-to-back allows a little more room for each plant.

Mickie
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93 EBs and growing... so how come there are never enough boxes??
weedbreeder
Guest
« Reply #7 on: December 07, 2009, 06:51:19 PM »

I know I am late on this one, but wouldn't you want to keep the tomato plants as close to the water source (wicking) as possible. That is why I plant mine in the back corners (opposite side of the water fill tube) above the wicking areas...

If a box is wicking properly, I doubt it would make any difference. Besides, the roots will gravitate toward (downward and to the corners) the water source anyway. I've seen lots of roots in the corner where the tube is... so it really doesn't seem to matter. The critical element here is to get the plants as far from the fert. strip as possible, and running the strip front-to-back allows a little more room for each plant.

Mickie

So, for a 1-tomato box (see thread "Best INDETERMINATE variety for the EB," http://forum.earthbox.com/index.php?topic=3064.0), do you recommend:

                                           
                                        F
                                        F
                                        F                     T
                                        F
                                        F
                                        F                      O 

configuration?
Thanks,
Jim   
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LavendulaFleur
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 400


So Cal (The Valley) Zone 10


« Reply #8 on: December 07, 2009, 08:51:38 PM »

weedbreeder,

You might want to check Dancing Lemon's thread regarding her amazingly prolific single tomato plant EB.

She has a lot of really good information on how she achieved this!
 Smiley
« Last Edit: December 08, 2009, 11:46:06 AM by LavendulaFleur » Logged
weedbreeder
Guest
« Reply #9 on: December 07, 2009, 09:49:16 PM »

Yes, that is a most interesting thread. I can only dream to have that level of success.  I couldn't see where the fert strip is located. It appears that the tomato is middle back and my guess is that the fert strips are down each side:

                          ----------------------
                          F          T            F
                          F                        F
                          F                        F
                          F                        O
                          -----------------------
Maybe DL will pick up on this thread and clarify it.
Jim
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cushman350
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 3043


Zone 8a


« Reply #10 on: December 07, 2009, 10:19:52 PM »

Quote
Specs:
EarthBox
ProMix BX potting mix (new mix put in this year 2009)
Espoma BioTone Starter 3 cups mixed into the upper 4-5 inches of the ProMix BX potting mix
Espoma Garden Lime 2 cups mixed into the top 4 inches potting mix
Espoma TomatoTone 4 cups - 2 cups in a fert strip on each side of the plant about 6 inches away from the plant
DL

Dual approach fert, Bio Tone mixed in and Tomato tone along side.
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LavendulaFleur
Hero Member
*****
Posts: 400


So Cal (The Valley) Zone 10


« Reply #11 on: December 08, 2009, 11:48:59 AM »

weedbreeder,

From DL's pics, it appears that the tomato plant is in the exact center of the EB.
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